Miyajima

Please note that my pictures loaded in exactly the opposite order, and there were too many to re do it

Once again on the train, now back to a base in Tokyo for my last week.  It feels like I’ve been here for longer than a week, but yet to only have a week left feels far too short.

Yesterday, I awoke to pouring rain, with plans to go to Miyajima, which according to the guidebooks is one of the 5 most beautiful places in Japan.  Perfect.

Well not to be put off by the weather, I got my rain jacket, and waterproof boots, layered my clothing and set off.  Breakfast was two cans of coffee from a vending machine.  One hot, one cold.  And pretty good too! (remember this fact for later)  I promptly got on the wrong train (first time!  not bad!).  In fairness to myself, it was the right train, going in the wrong direction.  In 2-3 stops, I recognized my mistake, and fixed it.  By this time the rain had stopped, and on arriving at the ferry to the island, the sun was poking through.

The island is best known forItsukushima—a Shinto shrine who’s torri  gate Is set into the sand.  During all times except low tide, it is surrounded by water.  During low tide, you can walk through it.  Also on the island is a well known Buddhist temple honoring Kobo Daishi, a monk of the Shingon sect of Buddhism.  In 806AD, he ascended Mt. Misen, and after 100 days of meditation, lit the eternal flame; a flame that supposedly has remain lit for 1200 years.  It is also the origin of the flame lit in Hiroshima’s Peace Park.

Since this was a Sunday, and the first weekend of Cherry Blossom Season, there were throngs of Japanese families heading there as well.  I noted the very poor foot ware of many of the young women, high heels did  not seem to be appropriate, but who am I to say?

The scenery was indeed as impressive as advertised.  Approaching the torri  gate from the sea, is awe inspiring.  The town was like a festival, and on entering Itsukushima, I found that I was a wedding crasher!  A full Shinto wedding was in process.  So THAT’S why some people were so well dressed!  

Also on the island are my old friends from Nara.  Those friendly miniature deer.

I wandered around the shrine and the town, and then headed up to Daisho-In, the Buddhist temple on the lower slopes of Mt. Misen.  What a beautiful temple.  It melded perfectly with the surrounding stream and foliage.  I then saw a sign for “Mt. Misen Observatory, 3.1km”  I figured a 3.2km hike could not be so bad, even if it is all uphill.  For the first time I saw some warning signs about proper foot ware and being “fit enough” for the hike, but I thought “how hard could it be”  HAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!!

Mt. Misen is 535 m tall.  That is 1755 feet.  The Empire State Building is 373 m or 1224 ft.  The trail I was on was basically a stairway of ancient stone steps that are just irregular enough to prevent a rhythm.  

After 30-40 min, my thighs were screaming, and I came to a rest area that I figured was near the peak (orientation was hard since I was in the woods) I saw a sign, “Mt. Misen Observatory, 1.8km”  ARE YOU KIDDING ME??? I wasn’t even half way there?  I was hungry (remember my breakfast? or lack of it), and I did not bring my water bottle for the first time all week!!  

I guess I could have turned around.  But that is not how I am wired.  I pressed on.  And on.  And on.  In hindsight, I think that is the point.  My thoughts became one thing, keep putting one foot in front of the other.  After an unknown period of time, I reached a small Temple.  This is where Kobo Daishi performed his meditation, and where the flame was kept.  I bought a bottle of water which rejuvenated me.  I pressed on to the summit.  

It was worth it.  The  360 deg view of the Seto Inland sea was stunning.

I set off back down.  Unlike cycling where you are rewarded by a climb with a fun descent, going down was difficult (not nearly as bad as going up however), especially on the wet stones.  I arrived at the base with a profound sense of accomplishment.  And I was FAMISHED (it was around 1430 at this point.

There were street stands all over, so I found one that was grilling things on skewers; I had some grilled chicken, and a grilled savory rice cake (glutenous rice) with a miso sauce.  SO GOOD!!!.  But while I was eating, one of the deer tried to take my food!!!  He just walked right up and would go from hand to hand trying to get one of my skewers!  I had to hold one arm up over my head while eating the skewer in the other hand.  People were laughing pretty hard at me.  Once I finished one, I let the little bastard gnaw on the stick while I ate the other.

I was bushed.  Took the ferry/train back to Hiroshima, got in the tub and soaked my sore legs while drinking a beer.  Then out for sushi and sake.

All in all a great day.  Yes my legs are a bit sore, and I have a huge blister on one of my toes, but those were worth it.