Nara

Well the plan for today was to get up early to catch a train to Nara to beat the crowds.

My activities last night threw a wrench in that plan.  My plan last night was to go get some Teppan-aki at a restaurant in the hotel/train station complex.  But they had no open tables.  So, being hungry, I went into the restaurant next door and had Japanese inspired Italian food (which was quite good).  The table next to me was a family of four.  A man of my age, his wife (who I'd say was in her late 30's) and their two early teen daughters.  They were sat with the girls facing me.  And they found me to be quite amusing.  I guess that they don't get the chance to see many stocky caucasian men with shaved heads. And anyone who knows me that I would play along, making sure that they knew that I was aware of their interest in me.  Mom and Dad (especially dad) loved it.  And when I got up to leave, both parents stood up, wished me safe travels, and a bowing contest ensued.

For those that have not experienced this, it is amusing.  When you meet someone, you bow.  The deeper the bow, the more respect you show.  It is not appropriate to bow deeply to wait staff or other service personnel, a brief nod and shoulder dip is appropriate.  All it takes is a day or two to figure this out.

So when my table neighbors bowed to me, and fairly deeply, I did the same.  But apparently I was too deep, so they needed to bow again.  And so on.  Each successive bow being a little shallower.  About half way through, the three of us were chuckling, and Dad shook my hand and complemented me on my Japanese manners (and for tolerating the amusement of his children).

I then stepped out to have an after dinner drink.  I think I chose  the right bar.  I sat at the bar and ordered a Japanese single malt whisky (Suntory Yamazaki 12 y/o).  It was very good.  I had had the Hakushu the other day which I preferred.  During my first drink a 60+ y/o VERY well dressed man sat next to me.  He was fairly impaired.  He spoke rapidly to the bartender, who went to the back of the bar and brought out a bottle of Single Malt Scotch.  Apparently, he had purchased the entire bottle to bring home with him to Tokyo.  We got to talking, and pretty soon, he was insisting that I drink his exceptional Scotch whiskey instead of the Japanese "swill".  He refused my offer to buy him a drink in return, telling me that he was quite well off, and I was a guest in his country.   He was in Kyoto for a board meeting (of a MAJOR corporation).  We kept talking and drinking, and pretty soon I was as impaired as he was when he came in.  We spoke about Russian politics, US politics and how they relate to Japan.  He wanted to know all about Oklahoma, having only travelled to NYC and San Francisco.  He told me about Japanese finance.  A fascinating conversation.--I checked out his story, he certainly is who he claimed to be.  I easily found him on the internet.  He's a serious bigshot.

Suffice to say, I did NOT wake up early.  But did make the 0930 train to Nara.  The tour busses had arrived, which made it a little less enjoyable than some of the temples and shrines I've been to so far, but the entire temple/shrine complex is impressive none the less.  I'm very glad I went.

And let me make some comments about the deer.  This town is overrun with tame dwarf deer that eat out of your hands.  They follow you begging for food, like stray cats would.  They are everywhere, even walking into shrines.

The final two pictures are of the fortune that I bought at the Todaiji Temple (where the Great Buddha is).  And the place where you can tie the fortune up (to improve your lot).  The latter is a Shinto tradition which is done at a Buddhist Temple.  And the Taisha Shinto shrine is in the same park as the Buddhist temple.  So many people here practice both religions simultaneously.  Fascinating.