Monday, March 31, 2014

Miyajima

Please note that my pictures loaded in exactly the opposite order, and there were too many to re do it

Once again on the train, now back to a base in Tokyo for my last week.  It feels like I’ve been here for longer than a week, but yet to only have a week left feels far too short.

Yesterday, I awoke to pouring rain, with plans to go to Miyajima, which according to the guidebooks is one of the 5 most beautiful places in Japan.  Perfect.

Well not to be put off by the weather, I got my rain jacket, and waterproof boots, layered my clothing and set off.  Breakfast was two cans of coffee from a vending machine.  One hot, one cold.  And pretty good too! (remember this fact for later)  I promptly got on the wrong train (first time!  not bad!).  In fairness to myself, it was the right train, going in the wrong direction.  In 2-3 stops, I recognized my mistake, and fixed it.  By this time the rain had stopped, and on arriving at the ferry to the island, the sun was poking through.

The island is best known forItsukushima—a Shinto shrine who’s torri  gate Is set into the sand.  During all times except low tide, it is surrounded by water.  During low tide, you can walk through it.  Also on the island is a well known Buddhist temple honoring Kobo Daishi, a monk of the Shingon sect of Buddhism.  In 806AD, he ascended Mt. Misen, and after 100 days of meditation, lit the eternal flame; a flame that supposedly has remain lit for 1200 years.  It is also the origin of the flame lit in Hiroshima’s Peace Park.

Since this was a Sunday, and the first weekend of Cherry Blossom Season, there were throngs of Japanese families heading there as well.  I noted the very poor foot ware of many of the young women, high heels did  not seem to be appropriate, but who am I to say?

The scenery was indeed as impressive as advertised.  Approaching the torri  gate from the sea, is awe inspiring.  The town was like a festival, and on entering Itsukushima, I found that I was a wedding crasher!  A full Shinto wedding was in process.  So THAT’S why some people were so well dressed!  

Also on the island are my old friends from Nara.  Those friendly miniature deer.

I wandered around the shrine and the town, and then headed up to Daisho-In, the Buddhist temple on the lower slopes of Mt. Misen.  What a beautiful temple.  It melded perfectly with the surrounding stream and foliage.  I then saw a sign for “Mt. Misen Observatory, 3.1km”  I figured a 3.2km hike could not be so bad, even if it is all uphill.  For the first time I saw some warning signs about proper foot ware and being “fit enough” for the hike, but I thought “how hard could it be”  HAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!!

Mt. Misen is 535 m tall.  That is 1755 feet.  The Empire State Building is 373 m or 1224 ft.  The trail I was on was basically a stairway of ancient stone steps that are just irregular enough to prevent a rhythm.  

After 30-40 min, my thighs were screaming, and I came to a rest area that I figured was near the peak (orientation was hard since I was in the woods) I saw a sign, “Mt. Misen Observatory, 1.8km”  ARE YOU KIDDING ME??? I wasn’t even half way there?  I was hungry (remember my breakfast? or lack of it), and I did not bring my water bottle for the first time all week!!  

I guess I could have turned around.  But that is not how I am wired.  I pressed on.  And on.  And on.  In hindsight, I think that is the point.  My thoughts became one thing, keep putting one foot in front of the other.  After an unknown period of time, I reached a small Temple.  This is where Kobo Daishi performed his meditation, and where the flame was kept.  I bought a bottle of water which rejuvenated me.  I pressed on to the summit.  

It was worth it.  The  360 deg view of the Seto Inland sea was stunning.

I set off back down.  Unlike cycling where you are rewarded by a climb with a fun descent, going down was difficult (not nearly as bad as going up however), especially on the wet stones.  I arrived at the base with a profound sense of accomplishment.  And I was FAMISHED (it was around 1430 at this point.

There were street stands all over, so I found one that was grilling things on skewers; I had some grilled chicken, and a grilled savory rice cake (glutenous rice) with a miso sauce.  SO GOOD!!!.  But while I was eating, one of the deer tried to take my food!!!  He just walked right up and would go from hand to hand trying to get one of my skewers!  I had to hold one arm up over my head while eating the skewer in the other hand.  People were laughing pretty hard at me.  Once I finished one, I let the little bastard gnaw on the stick while I ate the other.

I was bushed.  Took the ferry/train back to Hiroshima, got in the tub and soaked my sore legs while drinking a beer.  Then out for sushi and sake.


All in all a great day.  Yes my legs are a bit sore, and I have a huge blister on one of my toes, but those were worth it.

































Saturday, March 29, 2014

We Americans have a lot to learn

Today was a somber but positive and beautiful day.  Arrived at my hotel and dropped off my bags, and headed out on foot to see Hiroshima.  In 1945, Hiroshima had a population of around 350,000.  Now it is over a million.  From the train station, this looks like a fairly pretty city, with lots of gleaming metal, well cared for pedestrian walkways, pedestrian malls that are covered with high end shops.  But as we know, it is the sight of one of the worst tragedies in the long history of the earth.

I did not know what to expect coming here.  I just knew that there was this thing called "The Peace Park" and that there was a memorial.  As usual, real life trumps the guide book.

I walked down this city street which emptied onto a bridge crossing one of Hiroshima's many rivers. On the other side was a beautiful city park with Cherry trees in full bloom.  There were families having picnics underneath the trees despite the impending rain.  Children were playing in the grass.  I saw a group of people carrying kayaks getting ready to put into the river.  I took a bunch of pictures, and then turned and was struck dumb.  Ground Zero (the original), the epicenter of the blast.  The building that has become etched in the history of mankind.  The building that survived solely because it WAS the point of impact (Little Boy exploded 600m above, so the blast did not affect that one building).

I sat and reflected in amazement.  I'm not ashamed to say that I wept in public.  Both out of sadness that humans could produce a weapon that caused so much destruction in a single use, but also of the incredible nature of the Japanese people.

I'm sure that if the roles had been reversed, Americans would not have created the same type of memorial.  Look at Pearl Harbor.  When I left the USS Arizona, I was sad for the people who died, and angry at the nation of Japan.

There was not one ounce of vengeance or anger in Hiroshima.  In fact, in the museum that honors the victims, the blame is placed on the JAPANESE government for "going down the path of war".  The entire park/memorial/museum is based on one premise.

We need to remember this so that NO ONE EVER DOES THIS AGAIN.  We as a society need to strive and work towards world peace.

What greater message could there be?

As I walked through the park, I reflected on these thoughts and how I could apply them to my life.  Forgiveness is so important.  As is Remembrance.  But the latter is only useful if seen through the lens of how we can move forward and ensure we don't make the same mistakes.

I also saw another amazing thing (I keep saying amazing in this blog), a group of very elderly people ringing a bell that commemorates the children victims of the blast.  These were survivors!!!

I'm off now to go get some okonomiyaki and maybe some local sake

















A Sunny Day in Kyoto

I awoke on Friday morning early knowing that it was going to be a pretty day and that the city was filling up.  This is the first weekend of the Cherry Blossom Festival.  My first goal was to go to Ryoan-Ji a 500+ year old Zen Buddhist temple with one of the oldest Zen Gardens in the world.  And I wanted to beat the tour busses.  Unfortunately (or fortunately—depending on your point of view) I got off the bus at the wrong stop forcing me to walk an additional 25min to the temple.  

On my arrival, there was a bus full of elderly Brits who’s guide did not stop talking.  I resolved to let it pass, and sat in mindful meditation at the garden (Zen gardens are rocks, What is a garden without plants?—something to meditate on).  I thought I spent 10 min, but looking at my watch, I had sat there for an hour.  Feeling at peace, I walked throughout the grounds.  Then I made my way to Kinkakuji  The Golden Pavilion.  The guide books did not prepare me for its splendor.  Thousands of people were there, but everyone was polite.  The day had quickly warmed up into the mid 70’s with bright blue skies.  All was right in the world.

Next, I got on a bus to Nijo Castle- a Feudal castle which acted as a keep for protecting the Imperial Palace.  It was also where the Shogun met his feudal lords.  They were so paranoid that they built the floorboards to squeak like Nightingales so that it was difficult to sneak up on the Shogun.  They still do.  By this time it was only noon, so I got back on the bus with the intention to walk around Gion (the old district of Kyoto), but I found the bikeshare bikes so I rode around for 2 hours exploring.  I found someplace selling Green Tea Icecream.  and another selling daifuku-which may be my new favorite food.  Daifuku is mochi (a sticky, glutenous rice flour cake) around sweetened bean paste then rolled in soy flour.  They are addicting.  OK, that was lunch.  Cake and Icecream!!  I returned the bike and set out to take some pics of the places I saw.

Saw two Geisha getting some professional pictures taken, and then wandered into Maruyama park.  There I saw the beginnings of a festival.  I chose not to hang around since the crowds were getting thick, not my scene.  But I did have my first Shiba-Doge sighting.  Much happiness.   (if a reader does not know what Doge is, good for you.  You are obviously brighter than I)

By this time, I was really fatigued.  Caught a very crowded bus back to my hotel where I chilled out before dinner.  I had Udon Curry with beef.  OMG it was good.  I’ve never had Japanese Curry, and I like it.

I went back to my lucky bar of the two previous nights, but no interesting characters.  Had a drink and then back to the hotel to sleep.


Now I’m on the Shinkasen to Hiroshima.  I missed my first train (my watch was off by 3 min) so I had to transfer at Shin-Osaka.  I figured it out pretty quickly.  This train system is super efficient and easy to negotiate.  

 DOGE!!
Bikeshare bikes
Maruyama park

Maruyama park
 Maruyama Park Setting up for the festival

 the Peace sign is a thing here for pics

 These two were just posing for professional pics-- Prom maybe??
 Nico Castle

 Kinkakuji
 Kinkakuji
 Kinkakuji
 Kinkakuji
 Ryoan-Ji Zen temple grounds
Ryoan-Ji Zen garden