OkieDoc's Travels

Thursday, March 27, 2014

The world is amazing

I needed to get this down before I went to sleep.

I went to the same bar as last night for a single whiskey. While sitting there, the gentleman to my right struck up a conversation when his friend went to the bathroom. He asked why I was traveling without my family and I told him that I had never had children and my wife passed away a year ago. And that this trip was part of my healing.

His eyes welled up. And in broken English, explained that his wife died 2 weeks ago and that he was in Kyoto to spend time with family and his best friend. We (he, his best friend, and I) sat together, cried together and had a drink together. I'm crying right now as I type this. Not out of sadness. But more out of wonder.

How is it that I ended up in that place at that time? I am not a believer in a god that demands prayer. But yet, I am fairly spiritual. And today, I helped that man. And he helped me.

We exchanged emails and hope to meet up when I get back to Tokyo next week (which is where he lives).

I am amazed.

Nara

Well the plan for today was to get up early to catch a train to Nara to beat the crowds.

My activities last night threw a wrench in that plan. My plan last night was to go get some Teppan-aki at a restaurant in the hotel/train station complex. But they had no open tables. So, being hungry, I went into the restaurant next door and had Japanese inspired Italian food (which was quite good). The table next to me was a family of four. A man of my age, his wife (who I'd say was in her late 30's) and their two early teen daughters. They were sat with the girls facing me. And they found me to be quite amusing. I guess that they don't get the chance to see many stocky caucasian men with shaved heads. And anyone who knows me that I would play along, making sure that they knew that I was aware of their interest in me. Mom and Dad (especially dad) loved it. And when I got up to leave, both parents stood up, wished me safe travels, and a bowing contest ensued.

For those that have not experienced this, it is amusing. When you meet someone, you bow. The deeper the bow, the more respect you show. It is not appropriate to bow deeply to wait staff or other service personnel, a brief nod and shoulder dip is appropriate. All it takes is a day or two to figure this out.

So when my table neighbors bowed to me, and fairly deeply, I did the same. But apparently I was too deep, so they needed to bow again. And so on. Each successive bow being a little shallower. About half way through, the three of us were chuckling, and Dad shook my hand and complemented me on my Japanese manners (and for tolerating the amusement of his children).

I then stepped out to have an after dinner drink. I think I chose the right bar. I sat at the bar and ordered a Japanese single malt whisky (Suntory Yamazaki 12 y/o). It was very good. I had had the Hakushu the other day which I preferred. During my first drink a 60+ y/o VERY well dressed man sat next to me. He was fairly impaired. He spoke rapidly to the bartender, who went to the back of the bar and brought out a bottle of Single Malt Scotch. Apparently, he had purchased the entire bottle to bring home with him to Tokyo. We got to talking, and pretty soon, he was insisting that I drink his exceptional Scotch whiskey instead of the Japanese "swill". He refused my offer to buy him a drink in return, telling me that he was quite well off, and I was a guest in his country. He was in Kyoto for a board meeting (of a MAJOR corporation). We kept talking and drinking, and pretty soon I was as impaired as he was when he came in. We spoke about Russian politics, US politics and how they relate to Japan. He wanted to know all about Oklahoma, having only travelled to NYC and San Francisco. He told me about Japanese finance. A fascinating conversation.--I checked out his story, he certainly is who he claimed to be. I easily found him on the internet. He's a serious bigshot.

Suffice to say, I did NOT wake up early. But did make the 0930 train to Nara. The tour busses had arrived, which made it a little less enjoyable than some of the temples and shrines I've been to so far, but the entire temple/shrine complex is impressive none the less. I'm very glad I went.

And let me make some comments about the deer. This town is overrun with tame dwarf deer that eat out of your hands. They follow you begging for food, like stray cats would. They are everywhere, even walking into shrines.

The final two pictures are of the fortune that I bought at the Todaiji Temple (where the Great Buddha is). And the place where you can tie the fortune up (to improve your lot). The latter is a Shinto tradition which is done at a Buddhist Temple. And the Taisha Shinto shrine is in the same park as the Buddhist temple. So many people here practice both religions simultaneously. Fascinating.

Wednesday, March 26, 2014

Kyoto

Alright, so yesterday I typed on my train ride from Tokyo to Kyoto. I realized that I forgot an important thing. If you are not in a rush to get somewhere, don't ride the Tokyo subway at 0800 of a workday!! I had heard the stories, but I'm originally from New York, and have ridden the NYC subway during rush hour. Well, I had no idea.
There are two major differences.

People drive on the wrong side of the road here. Which means that instead of passing on the left, you pass on the right. I was staying on the right side because that would keep me out of the way. WRONG!!!! Luckily, I'm a quick study, and didn't make too much of an ass out of myself (hauling a roller suitcase didn't help matters)
Commuters here are VERY organised. Unlike NYC where it is a free for all, here in Japan, the traffic is very orderly. But very fast moving. It is far easier to cut across a wide, chaotic stream than it is to cut across a torrent. Well, I figured it out anyway.

Once I got to Tokyo station, getting to my Shinkansen (bullet train) track was easy. And as I said yesterday, boarding was fast and easy. 3 hours on a high speed rail and I was in Kyoto. My hotel is owned by JR and is part of the train station. I checked my bags with them and went to eat some Ramen. I forgot to take a picture of the way that you order but it was pretty weird. You go to a vending machine, choose your dish, any add ons (like an egg, or a rice set to accompany) and pay the vending machine which gives you a ticket. Then you wait in line until a seat is ready. When you sit down, they take your ticket and make your ramen.

Kyoto train station is amazing by the way. In addition to the hotel (which is very nice), there are more restaurants than I can count, bars, a shopping mall, a high end department store named ISetan (think Neiman Marcus). It is also an architecturally beautiful building. I don't think my pics do it justice, but I'll try.

While taking these pics I also had my first Geisha sighting.

The first woman I assume is a Geisha, and the others are likely Maiko (in training) or possibly Hangyoku (apprentices). Now, there are many women who wear this garb when acting as servers or hostesses in restaurants, but these women were the real deal. They did not have the full face makeup, nor have any that I've seen about town. Apparently that is only for specific types of entertaining.

Then out to look at some shrines and temples. Which is what I did yesterday afternoon and all day today. The weather yesterday was cloudy and cool. Today it rained. And rained. And rained some more. Thank goodness for waterproof hiking boots and a good waterproof jacket. Today's weather also reinforced my decision to get a weather sealed camera. (thanks Olympus!!) I was limited to my kit lens though, since the primes are not waterproof (no more camera geek talk-- I promise).

I find this country's fascination with religion...fascinating! (my Composition Prof would have failed me for that one). The shrines and temples that I visited these last two days are from various Japanese schools of Buddhism , but there is also a Shinto shrine (the Orange and Green one). But most people here don't define themselves as either Buddhist or Shinto. Many practice one, the other or neither. Some are Christian, but still have ancestral shrines. The people mix and match and seem to be non judgemental about it.